Weatherize Your Home with Energy Saving Products and Save Big Bucks on Energy Bills
As winter chill takes hold, smart consumers looking for more ways to reduce the costs of heating their homes and conserve energy should consider winterizing or weatherizing their dwelling. Weatherization is not only practical and affordable, but is also ecologically sound. In fact, many energy saving products can easily be installed and solve problems created by both winter cold generally work for summer heat.
You can perform your own weatherization inspection to determine your home's major issues and then take steps to correct the problems. Air leaks in your home's "thermal envelope" tend to be the major problem and can been fixed by most any do-it-yourselfer. This envelope is created by your home's exterior walls, windows, doors, roof, and floors. When this envelope has cracks and gaps, the indoor air mixes with the outdoor air that enters. In winter, this means your furnace has to work overtime to keep the temperature up; conversely, in summer, your air conditioner gets maxed out trying to keep the air cool.
Homeowners and tenants who are ready to weatherize their homes might not want to take on expensive projects such as installing insulation or solar panels. However the good news is that even more economical alternatives such as caulking and weather-stripping and other seals pay for themselves in energy cost savings in about a year, according to experts. The immediate gain will be more comfort due to fewer drafts. Your first task will be to inspect for leaks yourself and then you need to seal them appropriately.
How will you find the leaks? While the chilly draft from under the front door is obvious, you need to check other common sites for leaks. These spots include the areas between door and window frames, outlets for utilities (electric, gas, cable, phone), air conditioner and dryer vents, between foundation and exterior walls, around chimneys, mail slots, and outdoor water faucets.
One way to check is by depressurizing your home by turning off your furnace and closing exterior doors and windows on a relatively windy day. With bathroom fan, stove vents, AC fan, and any others that blow air outside all turned on, pass a lighted stick of incense in suspected or common leak sites. Any smoke you see being sucked out or blown into the room signals a leak and goes on your list for weatherizing.
Many of these leaks, of less than 1/4 inch wide can be sealed with a caulking compound, most typically applied using caulking guns or pressurized cartridges. One cartridge generally suffices for two frames of either windows or doors, and four cartridges for your foundation sill.
Weather-stripping is another technique for sealing air leaks. Choose the kind that is appropriate for each site, providing a seal while still permitting operation of doors or windows. Is the strip going to catch on the rug when you open the door? Will windows still slide open? Also keep in mind the weather-stripping component. Open-cell foam, while cheap, wears and tears easily and can be unattractive and less efficient, thus best for low-traffic areas. Vinyl costs more but lasts longer, and metal strips can actually be attractive.
Keep in mind that a well-sealed home limits the indoor-outdoor air circulation. So if your home has dust, mold, carbon dioxide, or other air contaminants, sealing the gaps that let in clean outside air actually intensifies the indoor pollution. Removing these factors and assuring safe ventilation is a necessity. More detailed DYI instruction booklets are available, and for particularly drafty houses or difficult situations, a professional assessment may be warranted.
When you are satisfied with your weatherization, you will be impressed at the savings and be ready to take on more energy optimization improvements for your home!
You can perform your own weatherization inspection to determine your home's major issues and then take steps to correct the problems. Air leaks in your home's "thermal envelope" tend to be the major problem and can been fixed by most any do-it-yourselfer. This envelope is created by your home's exterior walls, windows, doors, roof, and floors. When this envelope has cracks and gaps, the indoor air mixes with the outdoor air that enters. In winter, this means your furnace has to work overtime to keep the temperature up; conversely, in summer, your air conditioner gets maxed out trying to keep the air cool.
Homeowners and tenants who are ready to weatherize their homes might not want to take on expensive projects such as installing insulation or solar panels. However the good news is that even more economical alternatives such as caulking and weather-stripping and other seals pay for themselves in energy cost savings in about a year, according to experts. The immediate gain will be more comfort due to fewer drafts. Your first task will be to inspect for leaks yourself and then you need to seal them appropriately.
How will you find the leaks? While the chilly draft from under the front door is obvious, you need to check other common sites for leaks. These spots include the areas between door and window frames, outlets for utilities (electric, gas, cable, phone), air conditioner and dryer vents, between foundation and exterior walls, around chimneys, mail slots, and outdoor water faucets.
One way to check is by depressurizing your home by turning off your furnace and closing exterior doors and windows on a relatively windy day. With bathroom fan, stove vents, AC fan, and any others that blow air outside all turned on, pass a lighted stick of incense in suspected or common leak sites. Any smoke you see being sucked out or blown into the room signals a leak and goes on your list for weatherizing.
Many of these leaks, of less than 1/4 inch wide can be sealed with a caulking compound, most typically applied using caulking guns or pressurized cartridges. One cartridge generally suffices for two frames of either windows or doors, and four cartridges for your foundation sill.
Weather-stripping is another technique for sealing air leaks. Choose the kind that is appropriate for each site, providing a seal while still permitting operation of doors or windows. Is the strip going to catch on the rug when you open the door? Will windows still slide open? Also keep in mind the weather-stripping component. Open-cell foam, while cheap, wears and tears easily and can be unattractive and less efficient, thus best for low-traffic areas. Vinyl costs more but lasts longer, and metal strips can actually be attractive.
Keep in mind that a well-sealed home limits the indoor-outdoor air circulation. So if your home has dust, mold, carbon dioxide, or other air contaminants, sealing the gaps that let in clean outside air actually intensifies the indoor pollution. Removing these factors and assuring safe ventilation is a necessity. More detailed DYI instruction booklets are available, and for particularly drafty houses or difficult situations, a professional assessment may be warranted.
When you are satisfied with your weatherization, you will be impressed at the savings and be ready to take on more energy optimization improvements for your home!
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